Thursday, September 27, 2012

Fethiye

Patara was an interesting ruin. It was a wealthy city, very prosperous and reasonably well preserved. It's undoing was the river they relied on for trade became silted up and and carried malaria. 
The afternoon was spent looking at a Greek village that had been abandoned when the Greek - Turkish swap took place. It was then a 7 km walk. This would not have been so bad but most of it was straight up  a mountain!! It was very challenging. There was the promise of  a swim at the end. 
This was also very funny as the beach had small rocks rather than sand and we had to crawl out on our hands and knees to avoid broken ankles!
We stayed in Fethiye for the night.

Kas

It was off to Kas for 2 nights. Kas was a smaller town but with spectacular sea views. On the way we stopped at a Lycian city - Phaselis. It was interesting but more special as we could swim in the Mediterranean. It was a near perfect beach. It was the right temperature and depth, very salty so not much of an effort to swim. 
In the afternoon we visited Demre - more ruins and the home of St Nicholas. There were many Russians. 
The next day was mostly leisurely -except for the massive climb up to a fort. The rest of the day was spent on a boat, swimming and eating and generally relaxing. Perfect!!

Antalya

We had a very long drive today to Antalya. On the way we stopped at the largest Caravanserai in Turkey. It was one of many along the Silk Road. It was very large and not difficult to imagine the many merchants and traders staying a few days for rest and protection. 
We also visited a Whirling Dervish museum. There were hundreds of people there and it seemed to be a shrine as well. The dervishes are considered a cult of Islam and cults are not legal. But it does appear that many people still are attracted to the dancers. 
Antalya is a very touristy place but it we stayed in the old town and that was interesting. It was full of tiny lanes with many twists and turns. We walked around to the marina and Hadrians Gate. Great seafood meal!
 
We had a very long drive today to Antalya. On the way we stopped at the largest Caravanserai in Turkey. It was one of many along the Silk Road. It was very large and not difficult to imagine the many merchants and traders staying a few days for rest and protection. 
We also visited a Whirling Dervish museum. There were hundreds of people there and it seemed to be a shrine as well. The dervishes are considered a cult of Islam and cults are not legal. But it does appear that many people still are attracted to the dancers. 
Antalya is a very touristy place but it we stayed in the old town and that was interesting. It was full of tiny lanes with many twists and turns. We walked around to the marina and Hadrians Gate. Great seafood meal!
 

Saturday, September 22, 2012

The day of stairs

This was a busy day! We were up early to get away by 8.30. We visited an underground city. This was started 2000 BC. It was 16 stories deep but we could only access 8 stories. That was plenty. It is amazing that hundreds of people lived in this place for years. They had cattle and chickens down there, graves, churches... Everything except privacy apparently! It was then back to walking 7 km this time. It was pretty hard going but there were some interesting churches along the way.  Lunch was on the river and most enjoyable.  It was then back to climbing. Another fort up a massive rock formation. Good views for nearly the top. A short drive to another underground city. This was smaller but still interesting. We then went to a mosque which was converted from a church. We climbed to the top of a hill to the Church of St Gregory, one if the early, Christian bishops.  To the hotel for a shower.

I must be getting fitter

I have to be getting fitter. Today was a quick stop at the fairy chimneys, which are the symbol of Cappodocia. We then went to a fort and climbed to the top. It was one of the highest points in the area. The fort was used by the monks for protection.  We then had a 3 km walk. This was not too bad. It was through a valley and fairly flat.  We then went to a ceramic artisan workshop that had fantastic pottery at very special prices.  Lunch and then to Goreme Open Air Museum. This had many ancient churches all up a million steps in caves. They were fairly well preserved and handsome interesting stories and history.  It was then back for a rest before dinner at the hotel.

More walking!

More walking today. Firstly through the White valley. It was about 3 hours and very hard going. One of the hills was just so steep I did not give myself a chance of making it. But I did! We stopped at a cafe in the middle of nowhere. People are very enterprising here! We had a cup of tea  or juice and their was an opt out if it was getting too difficult because apparently it got worse. I decided the 5 Kms was enough and got a lift to the next town where I waited with an icy cold beer.  We then went to look at some caves in some fairy chimneys.  On the way home we had a Turkish bath, which was sooooo relaxing!  We then went to a cultural night for dinner, meal, alcohol and entertainment. It was a very late night.

Wednesday, September 19, 2012

12 km of walking

It was a huge day today. We were up and out by 9.00 and a 20 min drive to our drop point. It was then 7km walk. It was not too bad , really. It had a few ups and downs, but it mostly flat. The worst part was the heat. I had packed liters of water but it went very quickly. We did stop halfway at a tent that sold juice and tea which was very welcome!  It would have been better if towards the end our guide had remembered where he had Organised the pick up! We did have to back track a little. We had lunch and an icy cold beer at a traditional restuarant. The food came sealed pottery containers that had to be broken  with a hammer. Delicious! In the afternoon, we had the option of going back to the hotel or a 5 km walk. I chose the walk. It was descending the Zema Valley and it was a very challenging experience. It included such delights as climbing down a steep slope hanging onto a rope. The penalty for letting go was a long but fast crash to the bottom of a ravine. I was very happy to see the bus at the end of the trail.  We then had a lovely dinner at the hotel and an early night.

First tour day

Well, we met up with the other 10 people and the guide today. Fortunately, they were all very nice people. A mix of Australians, Canadians, and Americans. I think it will be fun! It was a very busy day. Many of the group thought we would be traveling by bus between sites, but no! It was walking everywhere. Good practice for the days ahead. We started at the Blue Mosque.  It was beautiful and spectacular. What can you say... The mosaics are out of this world, colorful and intricate.  It was then a fast walk to Topkapi Palace, which was the home of the Sultan's in days  past.  It was spread out and the guide walked very fast and Ken ended up MIA. We sent out a search party but eventually we found him. He will be getting a post it tag saying " if lost please return to ..... " we then Han to retrieve him from a weapons display! Nothing changes!! It was. The off to lunch and the Grand Bazaar .... Lots of stuff to buy, no prices, so all bartering. Nobody was game to purchase and I had no room anyway. It was a burn back to the hotel to pick up the luggage and off to the airport for a quick flight to Cappodocia. It was then an hour drive to our hotel. The hotel was an ex Greek mansion. A little rundown but I don't think we will be here much. 

Sunday, September 16, 2012

First days in Istanbul

Arrived in Istanbul very early and had to get our way to the hotel. Opted for shuttle. It was way too early for check-in but we were well looked after with tea and breakfast. We walked for an hour or so and then with our room ready had a refreshing shower and nap to recover from the 26 hours of flying. It was then time to explore. We walked through a bazaar, through the hippodrome, walked past the impressive Blue Mosque and found the City Tour bus. Always a good way to get the lay of the land. It was interesting to see the Asian side of the city, which is a bit less touristy. We then walked back to our hotel via the mini mart and had a refreshing ale on the balcony of our penthouse room. Dinner was at an excellent fish restaurant where we selected our dinner form a range of fish put before us! It was delicious! Sunday we breakfasted and headed out to see the Hagia Sofia and the Basilica cisterns. On our way we met a like able lad who advised us that while it was possible to easily get into the cistern, we would not enjoy the Hagia with so many people about. The queue was about. 200m long. He was very chatty and suggested we go to the cistern and he would meet us after and take us to his uncles for coffee and to look at the carpets they sell. We assured him we would not be buying anything but he insisted that there was no pressure. We actually had a lovely time, coffee and a chat to an interesting and well travelled carpet seller. I then persuaded KB to hand over some euros so I could have a Turkish bath at a very old and lavish (apparently the sultan's dating back to 1600)haman. It was a sublime experience. Scrubbed and massaged on marble slabs, it was something special. KB also coughed up for similar on the men's side. We had a kebab for lunch. After a rest we tackled the Hagia Sofia. Words cannot describe this building. I have never seen anything quite as spectacular. The photos we took would not do it justice! Home for a cleansing and dinner down the road! Tour starts tomorrow, can't wait....this place is amazing!!

Wednesday, September 12, 2012

Saturday, September 8, 2012

Before we go..

We are starting to prepare for our big trip. Ken is starting to stress which is pretty normal for him at this stage! We will be away for 9 weeks. We start in Istanbul and pick up a tour of Turkey. Unusual for us but it will be nice not to think for a little while. We then fly to Paris to catch a plane to Minsk which will be a real adventure. Back to Paris and we will pickup a car. It is the a month of ??? We have no real plans. Just a vague idea that we want to go to Prague and maybe a bit more of Poland. Early November we will catch a ferry to England and do some visiting. Back home on 24th November.